Shadow and Bone’s Grisha have a wide range of powers, and the color of their kefta reveals the kind of magic they wield. The kefta, the long embroidered coat that Grisha wear, denotes service in the Second Army, Ravka’s elite Grisha military force. All Grisha wear them while training at the Little Palace and serving in the military.

Kefta are bulletproof, specially made by Fabrikators to wear into battle. Throughout the series, the kefta made it difficult to bring down a Grisha with a gun. The kefta is worn over clothes that resemble an average Ravkan peasant’s attire, as General Kirigan demands that the Grisha emulate peasants even while living in luxury.

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Grisha practice the Small Science in a multitude of ways, each gifted with control over a specific part of the world around them. They can manipulate different materials or elements at the molecular level, distinguishing their power from merzost, corrupt, forbidden magic that creates something out of nothing. There are three orders of Grisha magic. The particular color of kefta that a Grisha receives indicates their order, while the color of the embroidery indicates their ability within that order.

Corporalki

Corporalki, the Order of the Living and the Dead, wear red kefta to indicate their power over the human body.  Healers wear red kefta with gray embroidery. Heartrenders, who can damage internal organs, wear red kefta with black embroidery. The rare Tailors wear red kefta with blue embroidery, a combination Alina notes she had never seen until Genya receives her kefta in the books. At the moment, Genya is the only Grisha with this exact color combination as she is the only known Grisha Tailor.

Etherealki

Etherealki, the Order of Summoners, wear blue kefta to indicate their power over natural elements. As a Sun Summoner, Alina wears a blue kefta with gold embroidery, the only one of its kind. Squallers, who control the air, wear blue kefta with silver embroidery. Inferni, who can create fire, wear blue kefta with embroidery. Tidemakers, who control water, wear blue kefta with light blue embroidery.

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Materialki

Materialki, the Order of Fabrikators, wear purple kefta to indicate their control over materials in the world around them. Durasts, who can manipulate solid materials, wear purple kefta with gray embroidery. Alkemi, who can manipulate chemicals, wear purple kefta with red embroidery.

General Kirigan

While Grisha usually wear the colors of the three orders, only General Kirigan, also known as the Darkling, wears black. As the leader of the Second Army and the only Shadow Summoner in its ranks, a black kefta with black embroidery is reserved for him. When Alina arrives at the Little Palace in the Shadow and Bone books, the Darkling orders a black kefta with gold embroidery for her, indicating her high status and his favor since she is the only known Sun Summoner. Not wanting to stick out even more, Alina refuses it and wears Etherealki colors instead, but she finally wears black during the Winter Fete in both the show and the books.

Palace Servants

Grisha who work as servants in the palace wear cream-colored kefta with gold embroidery. Genya wears white for most of the season, as General Kirigan gifted her to the Ravkan Queen for service as a Tailor. There is an abundance of types of Grisha Shadow and Bone, but their kefta can help new fans identify their powers.

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